Discovering Setúbal: A Journey Through Our New Home
- Life Beyond the Leap Crew
- Aug 4, 2024
- 9 min read
Updated: Aug 7, 2024
Nestled along the northern bank of the Sado River estuary, Setúbal is a hidden gem of Portugal, rich with history, vibrant culture, and a culinary scene that delights locals and visitors alike. With its unique blend of natural beauty, historic charm, and modern living, Setúbal quickly became our top choice for a place to settle in Portugal. Our new home offers an unparalleled lifestyle that is both relaxing and invigorating.
What Makes Setúbal Special?
Natural Beauty
Setúbal is blessed with stunning natural landscapes. The Arrábida Natural Park, with its lush hills and crystal-clear waters, is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. The park's Serra da Arrábida mountain range provides ample opportunities for hiking, biking, and exploring hidden beaches such as Praia da Figueirinha and Praia de Galápos.
The Sado River estuary is another natural wonder, home to a resident population of bottlenose dolphins. Dolphin-watching tours are a common activity, offering a unique glimpse into the lives of these fascinating creatures.
Culinary Scene
Setúbal's restaurant scene is dynamic and diverse checking a huge box for our foodie palates. From traditional tascas serving hearty Portuguese fare to contemporary eateries offering innovative dishes, there's no shortage of dining options. Seafood lovers will be in heaven, with many restaurants specializing in freshly caught fish and shellfish brought in daily by local fishermen.
After living here for a few months, we have experienced our fair share of restaurants around town and have compiled an extensive list of our favorites (which you can find HERE) including the Michelin rated standout, Ryōri. We will be frequently adding to this list as we continue to eat our way through Setubal! Not only are we amazed by the number of new restaurants popping up each month, we are excited to find a wide range of culinary options from traditional local seafood cuisine to Italian, Japanese, American, and many more!
Note that Setúbal’s most iconic dish, "choco frito" (fried cuttlefish) is a crispy and savory treat that is a staple in many local eateries and should be on your “things to eat” list at least once, well maybe twice!
If you are visting and up for trying a new Portuguese recipe at home, don’t miss the Mercado do Livramento, a bustling market that dates back to 1930. Here, you can find an array of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and, of course, seafood. The market's Art Deco architecture and vibrant atmosphere make it a fascinating place to explore and sample local delicacies.
Wine
Setúbal is also famous for its wines, particularly the sweet Moscatel de Setúbal. The region's vineyards produce a variety of wines that can be enjoyed in local wine bars, restaurants, or at home from the grocery store. Portuguese wines are not only robust in flavor, but most are reasonably priced at under 10 Euro per bottle!
Historic Places and Monuments
Setúbal is rich in historical landmarks that tell the story of its past offering a perfect opportunity for a day of urban hiking.
The Monastery of Jesus of Setúbal, built in the 15th century, is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture. Its intricate stonework and beautiful azulejos (ceramic tiles) make it a must-visit site. The monastery now houses the Museum of Setúbal, where you can explore artifacts and artworks that trace the city's history.
Praça do Bocage is the main square of Setúbal, named after the famous Portuguese poet Manuel Maria Barbosa du Bocage. The square is a bustling hub, surrounded by cafes, shops, and historic buildings. It's a great place to sit and enjoy a coffee while soaking in the city's vibrant atmosphere.
This 16th-century church is a remarkable example of Manueline architecture, Portugal’s late Gothic style. Its intricate carvings and ornate interior make it a popular wedding location and must-visit site.
Avenida Luísa Todi is Setúbal's main thoroughfare, lined with shops, restaurants, and cultural venues. This lively street is named after the renowned 18th-century opera singer Luísa Todi, who was born in Setúbal. Strolling along this avenue, you'll find a mix of modern and traditional architecture, reflecting the city's evolution over the centuries.
Built in the late 16th century under the reign of King Philip I of Portugal, the fort was constructed to protect the strategic Sado River estuary from potential invasions. The structure showcases the typical star-shaped layout of Renaissance military architecture, designed to withstand artillery attacks. Today, Forte de São Filipe offers visitors panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, including the Arrábida mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, and serves as a significant cultural and historical monument reflecting Portugal's maritime heritage.
Beaches
Setúbal boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal, perfect for relaxation, sunbathing, and water activities.
Praia da Figueirinha is one of the most popular beaches in Setúbal. Known for its long stretch of white sand and calm, clear waters, it's an ideal spot for families and sun worshipers alike. The beach is well-equipped with amenities, including cafes, restrooms, and sunbed rentals. Parking is limited so arrive early or grab a bolt or the bus for a stress free arrival.
Praia de Galápos and Galapinhos
Nestled within the Arrábida Natural Park, Praia de Galápos and Galapinhos are a more secluded option, offering a tranquil escape with stunning natural scenery. The beaches are surrounded by lush greenery and rocky cliffs, creating a picturesque setting perfect for snorkeling and diving. Getting here is a bit more difficult as a rockslide has blocked the road between Praia da Figueirinha and Praia de Galápos.
Praia de Albarquel is a picturesque beach nestled along the stunning Arrábida Natural Park coastline. Known for its calm, clear waters and golden sand, this beach offers a tranquil retreat for visitors seeking natural beauty and relaxation. Its idyllic setting and accessibility make it a beloved destination for swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying the coastal landscape. Parking is limited so most beachgoers opt to bus or take the 15 minute walk from Praia da Saúde for a less crowded beach experience.
We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the local hangout beach on the Sado River – Praia da Saúde. A small beach that’s packed with locals and tourists all throughout the hot summer months (especially in August when most of the country is on holiday!). It’s a perfect spot to cool off in the chilly waters of the Sado river, enjoy water sports like kayaking or paddleboarding, and indulge in a bite and a beer from Rockalot!
A short ferry ride from Setúbal, the Troia Peninsula offers pristine beaches with soft, golden sands and azure waters. It's a great destination for those looking to enjoy a day trip with opportunities for water sports, beach volleyball, and simply lounging in the sun.
Parks
Setúbal is home to beautiful parks that provide green spaces for relaxation, recreation, and connecting with nature.
Parque da Bela Vista offers expansive lawns, walking paths, and playgrounds. It's an ideal place for a leisurely picnic, a brisk jog, or simply to unwind amidst nature.
Bonfim Park is a family-friendly park featuring playgrounds, sports facilities, and picnic areas. It's a favorite spot for locals to gather and enjoy outdoor activities, and its well-maintained green spaces provide a pleasant environment for relaxation and recreation.
This urban park is located along the riverfront and provides stunning views of the Sado River and the Troia Peninsula. It's perfect for a walk, jog, or bike ride, with plenty of green space for picnics and outdoor activities. The park also hosts cultural events and festivals throughout the year.
A green oasis in the city, Parque de Vanicelos is known for its tranquil environment, making it an excellent spot for relaxation and leisurely strolls. The park is equipped with picnic areas, walking trails, and playgrounds.
Shopping
Setúbal provides a variety of shopping experiences, from local markets to modern malls.
As mentioned earlier, Mercado do Livramento is not just a food market but also a place to find artisanal products, local crafts, and souvenirs. The vibrant atmosphere and rich selection of goods make it a must-visit.
For a more contemporary shopping experience, Centro Comercial Alegro Setúbal is the city's largest shopping mall. It features a wide range of stores, from fashion and electronics to home goods and cosmetics. The mall also includes a cinema, a food court, gigantic grocery store, and entertainment options for all ages.
Rua Álvaro Castelões and Rua Antão Girão are charming streets in the historic city center lined with boutique shops, cafes, and galleries. It's a perfect place for a leisurely stroll, where you can discover unique clothing, accessories, and gifts, all while enjoying the local ambiance.
Transportation
Setúbal is well-connected with various transportation options, making it easy to get around the city and travel to nearby destinations.
Ride-Hailing Services
Services like Bolt and Uber operate in Setúbal, providing convenient and affordable options for getting around the city. These services are particularly useful for those who prefer not to drive or need a quick and easy way to travel short distances.
Buses
Setúbal has an extensive bus network operated by TST (Transportes Sul do Tejo). The buses connect different parts of the city and provide routes to nearby towns and villages. The bus station is centrally located, making it easy to access various parts of the city and beyond. We've found that the bus is the most economical way of getting to Lisbon. The cost of a one way trip is 4.50 Euro and takes about 40 minutes. There is also an option to buy a monthly bus pass for 40 Euro which more than pays for itself if you take 4 or more trips to Lisbon each month.
Trains
The train station in Setúbal is part of the Fertagus network, which provides direct connections to Lisbon. The train journey to Lisbon takes approximately 50 minutes, making it a convenient option for commuters and travelers. The station also offers regional train services to other destinations within Portugal.
Proximity to Lisbon
One of Setúbal's significant advantages is its proximity to Lisbon. The capital city is just a 40-minute drive away, making Setúbal an attractive option for those who work in Lisbon but prefer to live in a more tranquil setting. Regular train and bus services further enhance the connectivity between Setúbal and Lisbon, allowing residents to enjoy the best of both worlds.
A Glimpse into History
Originally inhabited by the Lusitani, an Iberian tribe, the area later saw the arrival of Phoenician, Greek, and Roman settlers who capitalized on its strategic location and natural harbor. During the Roman period, Setúbal became known for its production of salt and fish sauce, integral to the region's economy. The city endured various occupations through the centuries, including the Visigoths and Moors, each leaving their mark on its cultural and architectural landscape. In the 12th century, Setúbal was reconquered by the Portuguese during the Christian Reconquista. The city flourished during the Age of Discoveries, becoming a significant maritime hub. The city's strategic location made it an important hub for trade and fishing industries that continue to play a vital role in its economy. Today, Setúbal is renowned for its scenic beauty, thriving fishing industry, and rich cultural heritage, reflecting its storied past and diverse influences.
The city's prime location along the Atlantic coast has made it an ideal center for fishing, with sardines being one of the most abundant catches. The sardine industry thrived particularly during the 19th and 20th centuries, leading to the establishment of numerous canneries and providing employment to a significant portion of the local population. This industry not only bolstered Setúbal's economy but also fostered a rich culinary tradition centered around sardine dishes. Festivals celebrating the sardine, such as the annual Festa de São Sebastião, highlight the fish's cultural importance. Today, the sardine remains a symbol of Setúbal's maritime heritage and continues to attract visitors eager to taste its renowned seafood cuisine.
Living in Setúbal Today
Living in Setúbal offers a unique blend of history, culture, and modern amenities. The city's laid-back lifestyle is perfect for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of larger urban centers. With its close proximity to Lisbon, Setúbal provides the perfect balance between tranquility and accessibility.
Community and Culture
Setúbal, with its predominantly Portuguese-speaking population and fewer tourists compared to other large cities in Portugal, offers the authentic experience we were searching for. The local community is welcoming and diverse, with a growing number of expatriates choosing Setúbal as their home. The "Our Setúbal Community Facebook Page" has also been a godsend allowing us to meet new friends and get a wealth of information on all things Setúbal. We are incredibly humbled by how friendly and helpful everyone has been, making our transition here smooth and enjoyable.
Setúbal also hosts numerous cultural events and festivals throughout the year. The Festas de São Sebastião and the Feira de Sant’Iago are two of the most popular, celebrating the city's patron saints with music, parades, and traditional food. The city also has a thriving arts scene, with galleries, theaters, and music venues showcasing local and international talent.
Outdoor Activities
For those who love the outdoors, Setúbal offers endless possibilities. Whether it's hiking in the Arrábida mountains, sailing on the Sado River, or lounging on one of the many beautiful beaches, there's something for everyone. The mild climate means you can enjoy most of these activities year-round.
Conclusion
Setúbal is a city that seamlessly blends its rich history with modern living. Its stunning natural landscapes, vibrant food scene, and welcoming community make it a wonderful place to visit and an even better place to live. Whether you're exploring its ancient monuments, enjoying a meal of fresh seafood, or simply taking in the breathtaking views, Setúbal offers a unique and unforgettable experience. Come say hi and discover the magic of Setúbal for yourself!
What an amazing article about Setubal Justin! The photography is perfect as always. I'm so happy to hear you're enjoying your time in Setubal and that you chose it for your new home town.